Introduction:
Suppose your refrigerator and freezer are both warm, and you either hear nothing running or hear a recurring “click… hum… click” sound from the back. In that case, the issue may lie with the heart of the cooling system: the compressor and its starting components (start relay and overload protector).
The compressor is the motor that pumps refrigerant through the system. For it to run, it needs to be successfully started by a start relay and protected from electrical faults by an overload protector. A failure in any of these three parts will result in a total loss of cooling. This guide covers preliminary, non-invasive checks you can perform.
Disclaimer: This guide is intended for informational purposes and focuses on observational techniques. Replacing compressor components involves working with high-voltage capacitors and the refrigerator’s main power supply. This is an advanced and potentially dangerous repair. ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR REFRIGERATOR FROM THE POWER OUTLET before attempting to access any of these components. If you are not experienced and comfortable with electrical component replacement, please hire a qualified appliance repair technician. A faulty compressor itself requires a certified sealed system technician to replace. We are not liable for any damage or injury.
When to Suspect an Issue with the Compressor or Its Start Components:
- The entire refrigerator (fridge and freezer) is warm and not cooling at all.
- The refrigerator is unusually silent; you don’t hear the familiar hum of the compressor running.
- You hear a distinct “click” sound from the back of the refrigerator, followed by a brief hum (1-10 seconds), and then another “click” as the system shuts off. This cycle repeats every few minutes. This is a classic sign of a compressor trying but failing to start.
- The lights inside the fridge work, and the fans might even be running, but there is no cooling.
Understanding the Compressor and Start Components:
- Compressor: A black, dome-shaped motor at the bottom back of the refrigerator. It’s the primary pump for the refrigerant.
- Start Relay: An electrical switch that provides a high-current “kick” to the compressor’s start winding to get it running. Once the compressor is up to speed, the relay disengages the start winding.
- Overload Protector: A safety device that monitors the temperature and electrical current of the compressor. If the compressor gets too hot or draws too much current (e.g., when it fails to start), the overload protector “trips” (the “click” you hear) to cut power and prevent damage.
Tools You’ll Need (for preliminary checks):
- Flashlight.
- Screwdriver (usually Phillips or Hex): To remove the back access panel.
Step-by-Step Preliminary Checks:
Step 1: SAFETY FIRST – UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!
- Before accessing the back of the unit, disconnect it from the power outlet.
Step 2: Access the Compressor Area
- Carefully pull the refrigerator away from the wall.
- Remove the lower back access panel to expose the compressor and other components in the machine compartment.
Step 3: The Listening Test (Requires Power Briefly – EXTREME CAUTION)
- This test is designed to confirm the “click-hum-click” symptom if you were unsure.
- Clear the Area: Ensure there are no tools, loose wires, or anything touching the compressor or its wiring.
- Listen Carefully: Plug the refrigerator back in. Stand near the back and listen closely for the next several minutes.
- If the compressor starts and runs smoothly (with a steady, low hum), your issue may not be with the compressor or its start components. The problem might be a sealed system issue (like a refrigerant leak), which would still require a professional.
- If you hear the “click… hum… click” cycle: This strongly confirms a starting problem. The click indicates that the overload protector has tripped. The hum is the compressor trying to run but being unable to.
- If you hear absolutely nothing: This could mean the start relay isn’t even trying, the overload is tripped and hasn’t reset, or the control board isn’t sending power.
- UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR AGAIN after your observation.
Step 4: The Touch Test (With Power OFF)
- Ensure the refrigerator is UNPLUGGED. If it were just running or trying to run, the compressor would be hot. Wait 30-60 minutes for it to cool down to a safe temperature.
- Feel the Compressor: Carefully touch the top of the black, dome-shaped compressor.
- If it’s extremely hot to the touch (even after cooling down for a while): This is a sign it has been trying to run and is overheating, which is consistent with a starting problem.
- If it feels room temperature or cold: This could indicate it hasn’t received power even to try to start, pointing more towards a faulty control board, thermostat, or a completely dead start relay/overload.
Step 5: Visual Inspection of Start Relay and Overload Protector
- The start relay and overload protector are small components plugged directly onto the electrical terminals on the side of the compressor, often under a plastic cover.
- Carefully remove the plastic cover (it may have a wire clip or snap tabs).
- Visually inspect the relay and overload protector. Look for:
- Burn marks or a burnt smell.
- Cracked or melted plastic.
- A rattling sound if you gently shake the start relay (some types, like PTC relays, will rattle slightly when bad, though this is not a definitive test).
- Any obvious signs of heat damage or burning are a strong indicator that the component has failed.
Interpreting the Results & Next Steps:
- If you observe the “click-hum-click” cycle and/or find a visually burnt start relay/overload, the most likely and easiest fix is to replace the start relay and overload protector. These are relatively inexpensive parts and are a common point of failure. This replacement should only be performed by someone comfortable and knowledgeable with electrical components.
- If the new start relay/overload protector does not fix the starting problem, this unfortunately indicates a high probability that the compressor itself is seized or has a faulty winding. A compressor replacement is a major and expensive repair that requires a certified, sealed system technician to perform.
- If the compressor is cold and there are no sounds, the issue is likely “upstream” from the compressor. The problem could be the main control board (Method 9), a faulty thermostat providing the run signal, or a dead start relay/overload.
Conclusion:
When your Samsung refrigerator stops cooling entirely, listening for and observing the compressor’s behavior is a critical diagnostic step. The classic “click-hum-click” cycle often points to a failed start relay or overload protector, a common and relatively simple fix for those with electrical experience. However, if these components are replaced and the problem persists, it typically indicates a more serious compressor failure requiring professional service.